I was so excited to FINALLY take a surf lesson at Manly Beach this weekend! However, when I woke up on Saturday morning to the pouring rain and set off for the ferry, which happened to rock and roll more than a rockstar does, I grew extremely nervous. The surf was just as rough as the ferry ride and as a bunch of us sat in a semicircle around our instructors in our binding wet suits, I grew extremely nervous.
What I didn’t expect was that actually getting the surf board out into the water would be so physically taxing. The waves and the currents were so strong that they would just drag my board backwards into the rips. By the time I actually reached the point to where I wanted to catch a wave, I was already exhausted.
Despite how much it sucked in the beginning though, when I actually was able to ride a wave, it was the most exhilerating feeling in the world and made the hard labor totally worth it. Gliding over the water at full speed felt like flying and I could understand why surfing is so important to the Australian culture. There’s nothing like being so in touch with nature and although I could only manage to stand on my knees in the crazy surf, I absolutely can’t wait to try it again. I’m going to Byron Bay this weekend and I will definitely be renting a board.
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